neda mi to, lebo stale mam trinity pocit, ze metodiku EI interpretujes nespravne. pristup EI vyvratil stare dogmy o PO4 a inych zlozkach obsiahnutych v "prebytku" ako primarne spustace rias. okrem toho to bola osveta pre akvaristu menej sa sustredit na testovania vody a jednotlivych zloziek a neustale s nimi zonglovat a napasovat a cele to pracne viest k limitovaniu P ale prave viac sa sustredit na rastliny a vediet citat ich potreby. Tebe to vysvetlovat nemusim, lebo rastliny a akvaria mas velmi pekne. ak Ta dobre chapem, tak na EI Ti primarne vadi mensia vyfarbenost rastliny, zbytocne rychly rast a nejake rizika zo zivin obsiahnutych vo vodnom stlpci? keby sme sa uz hasterili o slovickach a lipli oznaceniach, tak sa da povedat, ze prevadzkujes na seba prisposobeny EI, kedze buffer mas v dne a cielene do vody pridavas makra tak, aby si dlhodobo neskoncil na 0
vies co chces Ty z akvarka urobit a vies precitat rastliny a dat im to, co potrebuju.
davkovania EI sa v tomto vlakne nadalej uplne zbytocne demonizuju. dovolim si citovat priamo Toma Barra z jeho stranok a navodu (
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/62-The-Estimative-Index-of-Dosing-or-No-Need-for-Test-Kits)
A Typical Tank
A typical routine for a high light tank with low fish load:
Volume 80 liters (20 gal high standard tank)
5.5 watts/ gal. - two 55watt 5000K/8800K lamps
CO2-25-30ppm (I turn my CO2 off at night)
Canister filter
Fluorite (any porous iron rich material will do) about 7-10cm depth
A Typical Dosing Routine
1/4 teaspoon of KNO3 3-4x a week (every other day)
1/16th-1/32nd teaspoon of KH2PO4 3-4x a week (every other day)
Traces added on off days as the macro nutrients, so 3x a week, 5mls each time.
SeaChem Equilibrium 1/8 teaspoon after water change.
So the aquarist dose only 3 things really, KNO3, KH2PO4 on the day of the water change then every other day there after, traces of the off day till the next week rolls around. Do a 50-70% water change, dose the macro nutrients back, add the traces the following day and repeat. You can slowly back off this amount till you notice plant growth differences to tailor your individual tank’s need, but all you will do is waste some macros and traces by adding more than the plant needs. You should give each change in your routine about 3 weeks before making another change. This will take time but is worth the time spent. It will not cause algae unless you over look something, namely CO2 or under dosing KNO3 which both of these account for about 95% of all algae issues. If you focus on the plant’s needs, the algae will no longer grow. I hope this helps and ends much frustration for the aquatic gardener so then aquarist may focus on aquascaping and growing plants rather than asking how to kill algae. The aquarist does not have to stick with merely a weekly routine with the water changes or accept 50% as their volumes. This will level off the dosing at 2x the dosed amount so that nothing will ever be overdosed beyond 2x the target range.
ako priklad uviedol davkovanie pre
silne osvetlene akvarium s
malou osadkou. dalej sa docitame, ze davkovania mozeme znizovat za staleho sledovania rastlin. odporuca 3-tyzdenne intervaly, kde maju rastliny dostatok casu a moznost sa prisposobit. pokial zredukujeme davkovanie natolko, ze rastliny zacnu jasne davat najavo nedostatok zivin, davkovanie vratime na uroven predosleho cyklu a tam ho uz dlhodobo mozeme ponechat +/-, vobec ziadna potreba byt uzkostlivo presny s davkovanim. motivuje akvaristu sustredit sa na zdrave rastliny a nesustredit sa na nicenie rias. staci si tu vo vlakne "akvarijne rastliny" precitat nekonecne temy, ako nicit riasu. ci savom, plamenometom, apod. a je jasne, ze tito akvaristi stale nechapu ten pomyselny "jing a jang". myslim, ze EI to ponalo uplne od podlahy.
asi netreba prilis bujnu predstavivost na to, ze pokial mam
ovela slabsie svetlo, ako je uvedene hore v priklade, tak aj dopyt rastlin po zivinach bude slabsi. pri relativne slabom osvetleni mozem skoncit napokon s davkovanim, ktore je napr. vyrazne pod PPS PRO, PMDD, cokolvek. ci sypem prasky, alebo kvapkam roztok je fuk. ak mam obohateny substrat, trochu viac ryb, atd. mozno davkovanie PO4 a NO3 do vody ani nebude potrebne
a smik uz dostatocne presne popisal otazku vymeny vody, kolko % vlastne? a kedy? atd.
problem je v tom, ze ludia maju strasne radi presny a univerzalny navod. "tak kolko toho tam mam dat, aha? a potom toho a tamtoho, aha, aha, ok, tak to tam nalejem ako to pisali na akve a vodu kedy menit, aha za splnu presne 49,934568% haha, ved ja Balibanovi, Knottovi a Amanovi zachvilu ukazem co je to pekne akvarko
ja tvrdim, ze univerzalny navod neexistuje. rovnako neexistuje univerzalne akvarko. kazdy tu odprezentovany "system" je nieco ako somarsky mostik pre prvacika, ako ked janko ide na vandrovku a starenka mu zhruba ukaze cestu - chod tam synku. janko potom uz sam musi celit nastraham cesty a prisposobit sa okolnostiam a poucit sa. uz je na to sam, ci ho po ceste zhltne drak, alebo draka rozseka a ozeni sa s peknou okatou princeznou